Improvement in paper collars



PATENT erica,

SOLOMON S. GRAY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN PAPER. COLLARS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 413,400, dated July 5, 1834.

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, SOLOMON S. GRAY, of Boston, in the countyof Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful improvements in the 'cutting out and molding of shirt cellars made of paper, or of cloth and paper combined; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and

exact description of the same, reference being' had to the accompanying drawings, making a part of this specification, in which- Figure l represents a collar as it is cut out and before it is molded, and Fig. 2 represents the samiA ,nt-cc brought around into a circle and molded to lit the neck of the wearer or user. Y

Shirt-collars made ont ofpaper, or cloth and paper combined, from the very nature of the material out of which they are made, require certain manipulations thata Woven fabric does not requir f, and that to make a paper shirtcollar, or a paper and cloth combined shirtcollar, ont of one piece, thatl will t and set easy on the neck of the wearer has required much time, patience, skill, and invention Paper made on a cylinder-machine, which is almostl the universal mode now in practice, is nonyieloling in the direction of its length, and any attempt to mold` or stretch it in that direction will result in fracture, but across the web or felt it will bear stretching.

My invention consists, first, in cutting' out the strip ot' paper or similar material of which pulp is an essential part, across the web or lelt, or at right angles, or nearly so, to the length of the paper, so that a poition ofthe strip may be stretched or molded to fit the neck of thc wearer without t'racturin g the matez-iai; and my invention further consists in stretching or molding the under or lower portion of the collar, so that when bent around itwill lit the neck of the wearer more exactly and comfortably.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, Iwill proceed to describe the saine with reference to the drawings.

A represents a strip of paper, eut out crosswise ofthe bolt or sheet, and in the forni ofan arc of a circle of such radius and of such lengths as willA suit the various sizes to be made. On this strip, and in the direction of its length, is indented,by means ofa die, or of a pointed instrument drawn along a gage or former, a line, a, from which line to the base of the collar b the material is stretched or molded, so as to elongae said base b, while the portion between the line a and the top of the collar c may be left in its original condition. This strip, when bent laround into a circle to form the collar, will iiare out at the bottom portion, so as to conform to the shape of the neck, while the upper portion, though not stretched, will form the shape ofthe strip, and, as shown in Fig. 2, standoff, so as to conform also to that part of the neck which it surrounds. The stretching or molding may be done by a. die forced against the portion of the collar to be thus treated while its two ends are scurely held together; or it may be done by running the portion to be stretched or molded between pressi iig-rollers that will draw or stretch out that portion, and which rollers may be cylindrical or conical or it may be done by a single roll and a flat or stationary surface, upon which the stiip may rest. W'hen a roll or rolls are used to do the stretching, the indented line a may or may not be previously made i'n the strip, as a gage may be connected with the rolls to accomplish the purpose. The line a is important, however, not onlyT as a. defined mark between the portion stretched and the portion not stretched, but italso adds to the nish and appearance of the collar.

Strips cut lengthwise ofthe bolt or sheet of paper will not stretch with any degree of certainty, but will under the stretching process fracture, as thtre is no elasticity to the paper vin that direction. By cutting the strips crossdown ofthe collar may be done by any ofthe Y means or appliances heretofore described or patented by me'.

I am aware that cloth for garments is cut with a view of having the or warp weft run in a particular direction for a particular purpose, and am informed thatleathcr is similarly out. to have the grain in a special direction for a special purpose. I, of course, lay no claim to any such thing, as myinvention is confined exclusively to the making of collars, and out of a material that has neitherl the texture of cloth nor the strength ot' leather, but which is very fragile and difficult to put into any other form than that which it takes to itself in the papern achine. Nor do I claim the cutting out of the collar so as to have the greater expansibility of the paper in the line of the length of the collar for any other purpose than tha of availing myself of that expansibility afterward in molding the collar into shape.

Having thus fully described my invention,

what I claim therein as new, and desire to sey cure by Letters Patent, is-

l. Cutting out the paper strips from which Vthe collars are to be made so as to have the greater expansibility of the paper in the line 

